Bikerz of Lagos' blog: May 2016

Tuesday, 31 May 2016

Lagos rides for "The fallen".

More than 100 motorcyclists unified on Sunday the 29th of May 2016, in a memorial ride tagged "Respect to the Fallen Ones". This ride was a tribute to bikers who had “fallen”.

The ride was organized by Recue Me Lagos, an emergency biker retrieval outfit to commemorate the fatal crash last year of a 31-year-old biker Mr. Olayinka Ogunshakin (License plates: Khalifa).

The memorial was touched with extra sadness as tributes were paid to other fallen riders and fond memories were shared.

Top 10 tips for washing your motorcycle

I’d rather be riding my motorcycle than washing it, YES!!! But here comes the rain and we all know how that can be in Lagos (Shout-out to my ajah peeps). After some hard core rain ride or swimming through puddles of water, it can be fun bringing your motorcycle back to showroom quality (and hey its a great way to while away a couple of hours in the company of your best friend – your bike).

1. Preparation is key

Remove tank bags, luggage and any accessories you don’t want to get wet such as a GPS. Also, get all your washing and cleaning products ready. You’ll need a bucket, soap or liquid detergent, bug and tar remover, degreaser and/or engine cleaner, a toothbrush, WD40, a brush for wheel cleaning, tyre cleaner, paint polish, metal polish, at least two micro fibre rags, 100% cotton sponges, a variety of soft cotton or microfibre towels, abrasive rags and a soft cloth for drying.

2. Where and when you wash the bike is also important

Stay away from commercial washing facilities and do it yourself. Don’t do it on the street or in a unit driveway as it’s dangerous. Also, never wash straight after a long ride. Give the bike time to cool down, because you don’t want to spray cold water on a hot engine. Also, avoid washing in the middle of the day or in direct sun as it can dry detergents on the bike’s surface faster than you can rinse them off, leaving streaks. Contaminants in water, such as mineral deposits, also become much more aggressive when warm and, if water is sprayed on a hot bike, those water spots are more difficult to remove. If you are a bit of a greenie, wash on your lawn.

3. Wash frequently, but don’t overdo it

This is a bit of a balancing act. Frequent washing will alert you early to any developing problems such as oil or fluid leaks, loose or damaged parts etc. Leaving squashed bugs on your paintwork makes them difficult to remove later and can leave behind a blemish. Also, squashed bugs in your radiator can cause overheating problems. However, if you wash too often, you can displace lubricants from cables and exposed grease points on old engines. If you’ve come back from the bush and your adventure bike is caked in mud, you will need a full wash straight away. If you’ve just had a short jaunt up to your favourite hang out, then your bike might just need a gentle wipe over with some windscreen or bodywork spray and a soft cloth.

4. Wash with water and suitable cleaning agents

Don’t use a lot of water. Use the right cleaning product for the job. There is a product for every use. But be careful of abrasive cleaners or general-purpose household cleaning products as these can damage paint or chrome. Detergents should have a pH balance between six and eight, so it’s neither too acidic nor too alkaline as either could damage your paint (Manufacturer's advice). Check it’s safe to use on all paint types. Don’t use vinyl cleaners on the seat as it may look shiny but it will be slippery (Trust me you don't want that when you suddenly need your brakes). If you are using any harsh compounds to tackle tough jobs you should probably think about wearing rubber gloves.

5. High-pressure cleaning

It can be effective in removing caked-on mud and tough grime, but it can also force water into electrics and crevices where it can pool and cause corrosion or, at least, degreasing of vital parts. If using a high-pressure cleaner, keep it away from the instruments, electronics, chain and vinyl seats which can be ripped by pressurised water. Concentrate on wheels and bodywork. Pressure cleaners will do a good job of cleaning mud off a chain, but you will have to re-grease the chain afterwards. (When applying chain lube use only enough to do the job. Excess lube flings off on to your wheels.) If you do use a pressure cleaner, use a domestic unit that isn’t too powerful. Nothing over 2000psi. It can also be environmental friendly as they often use less water.

6. Make sure you have the right sponges, rags, brushes etc

Have separate cleaning rags and sponges for different areas. Don’t use a sponge to clean grease off the wheels then attack the seat with the same sponge as you will leave grease on your seat. There is a wide variety of modern cleaning equipment available. Microfibre cloths are particularly effective while also protecting surfaces. However, don’t dismiss the effectiveness of an old toothbrush for getting grit and grime out of hard-to reach areas such as radiators or for cleaning laced wheels. You can also use finest-grade steel wool to remove burnt-on grease and grime from chrome exhaust pipes.

7. Attention to detail

This makes the difference between a clean bike and concurs standard. When you’ve finished washing and polishing, spend time going over the bike one more time with a micro fibre cloth. Wipe the cables, clean the engine casings, rub the wheel hubs and lie down on the ground to see if you’ve missed any areas (Lol! Just kidding). Only use tyre shine on the tyre walls if you are entering a show and shine and not riding, otherwise overspray can reach the tread area and adversely affect grip.

8. Waxing can make or break a bike

Don’t use cutting compounds as they leave permanent swirls in the paintwork. Use a soft wax that adds a layer, rather than takes a layer off. Some modern bikes are actually covered in a layer of plastic or lacquer that can easily be damaged. Trial the product on a discrete area first then look at it in direct sunlight to see if it leaves swirls. Good quality wax will act as a sunscreen, leaving a UV barrier to protect your paint. Wax needs to be reapplied regularly to provide this protection. Put the polish on a clean rag, not directly on the bodywork. When dry, buff off the wax with a lint-free cloth.

9. WD40

Yes! The almighty WD40!! A bikers good companion!!! This is great for getting rid of excess water as well as gently removing built-up grease. It’s also good for re-greasing cables, hinges and levers that might have lost some lubrication in the wash. As a matter of fact its good for literally everything. Use wax spray or chain lube to coat the chain and always always always follow the instructions on the can.

10. Finally: Drying off.

When you’re finished drying with the soft cloth, ride slowly around the block, squeezing the brakes to pump out excess water. Then go for a longer and faster ride on a highway to blow water out of deep nooks and crannies. If water is allowed to stay there it can cause corrosion. You can also use a leaf blower to do the same job, but isn’t it nicer to go for a ride and show off your sparkling bike? When you get home, give you pride and joy another wipe down with a microfibre cloth to get rid of streaks on the windscreen and bodywork caused by excess water running out of crevasses.

Let us know your opinion and/or other methods you clean your bike with below.

The Doctor meets Motobot!

Valentino Rossi has met Yamaha’s self-riding Motobot in this official video from the Japanese manufacturer who plans to have an automated self-riding motorcycle available within a decade.
In the video, Valentino watches the Motobot cut some laps and then goes out and shows the robot how it’s done, providing the Yamaha engineers with vital data.
It is planned that Rossi will actually race the robot in 2017 and the Yamaha engineers believe they will be able to beat his lap times on several race tracks around the world.

Motobot is a robot that rides a specially equipped R1 motorcycle with outrigger wheels so it can stop and not fall over.
The project is being developed with SRI International, one of the world’s leading R&D centres.

Most car companies are already testing self-drive cars and believe they will have them available for the market in the next few years.

However, Yamaha chief executive Hiroyuki Yanagi says it would take at least a decade before autonomous technology was available on a commercial basis for motorcycles.
“Our current target is how to assist the rider,” he said. “The rider can focus more on safety if the machine handling becomes autonomous and artificial intelligence can be used for course selection.”

Yamaha has invested of up to US$20m in a Californian company working on autonomous vehicles, robotics and drones and in February, invested US$2m in a US start-up called Veniam for its connected vehicle know-how.
Technological rider intervention is already available with ABS brakes, dynamic suspension adjustment, traction control and emergency braking assistance.

So far, only ABS is being considered mandatory in some countries, but it is only a matter of time before these hi-tech rider intervention systems become compulsory.

One day, autonomous riding may also be mandatory.

Who knows?

Subsidy Removal! Electric Motorcycles. Yeah?

Nigeria is buzzing with the removal of fuel subsidy which sees one litre of fuel at N145 or there about. This immediately got everyone including Bikers of Lagos thinking alternatives.

Hence our looking into Electric motorcycles....

Bikers of Lagos takes a look at the choices available to riders interested in the electric road, the growing number of motorcycles available, what they can and can’t do and most importantly, how much it will cost to ride free of fossil fuels?

Excuse the pun, but electric motorcycles are a moving target right now with many manufacturers testing prototypes, some of which have plans to move into production. This article will focus on motorcycles that are available now and roll off a production line, regardless of how small it may be.

For those surprised at the release of Victory’s production electric motorcycle, they really shouldn’t be. The electric motorcycle is like a classic Rocky movie, an underdog in the two-wheeled world, working hard behind the scenes to get better and stronger. Just as with the fighter from the streets Stallone portrayed, there has been the metaphoric efforts of punching away in the meat plant, overcoming all the challenges faced by this choice of power for everyone’s favorite two-wheeled past time.
And like the famous Rocky movie, electric motorcycles have come out swinging, grabbing some well-deserved limelight, accolades and awards.
Aside from the usual questions any rider should ask about a potential two-wheeled purchase, electric motorcycles have the additional standards of range, weight as well as recharging methods and time. More than any other type of motorcycle, considerations should fall heavily on these factors as they’ll pretty much define whether an electric ride fits into your needs or style of riding.
It should be noted, this article is not a ranking of the featured motorcycles, and mostly due to the simple fact each one of the bikes addresses a different riding style or niche.

A brief history of electric motorcycles

It’s not clear when the electric motor was first attached to a frame and two-wheels. The earliest patent filings date back to 1895 when two very similar applications were filed, one for an ‘electrical bicycle’ and the other for an ‘electric bicycle’. According to Wikipedia, the first electric motorcycle made an appearance in a 1911 issue of Popular Mechanics which mentioned the introduction of an electric motorcycle.

'It claimed to have a range of 75 miles (121 km) to 100 miles (160 km) per charge. The motorcycle had a three-speed controller, with speeds of 4 miles (6.4 km), 15 miles (24 km) and 35 miles (56 km) per hour,' Wikipedia states.

However, competitive racing was the electric motorcycle kick-start from something of fancy to not only a viable riding alternative but also incomparable power houses.
It was an event in 2009 called ‘24 Hours of Electricross’ held in San Jose that brought Zero Motorcycles to the attention of the riding public. It is considered the first all-electric off-road endurance race and certainly set Zero on the road to commercial motorcycle production.
Currently, Zero Motorcycles has four models available, three street bikes and one dual purpose. The Zero SR takes us to Zero’s top of the line street motorcycle. The basic ride offers up 106 ft-lb of torque from a 67hp engine and has a maximum range of 151 miles. While a rider can only peek at 102 mph, a cruising speed of 85mph can be maintained.

Zero SR

The engine is air-cooled, achieving 60mph in 3.3 seconds and when a rider needs to stop, ABS brakes are standard.
When looking at the batteries which powers the Zero SR, some of the challenges faced by electric motorcycles come into focus. As with any fuel efficiency standard, the maximum range comes about when planets align perfectly so any estimations considered before ownership should be looked at closely and compared to riding habits and needs. The lower end of the Zero SR’s estimated range comes in at 77 miles and is classified as highway riding.

While there are several technologies used to recharge batteries, Zero uses a scalable "quick charge" system which allows owners to add-on standalone chargers for different segments of the battery, or in this case batteries. With just one charger, the Zero SR will recharge to 100% in five hours and uses standard household juice of 110 V or 220 V. Obviously, if charging up from a fuller battery, less time is needed.
Adding on stand-alone chargers does require separate 110V/15A circuits and if that thought is even slightly confusing, then get ready to be bewildered. Manufacturers use several techniques or ‘science-trick’s' to shorten charging time, so before any purchase is made riders should ensure their home has the required wiring to enjoy the available methods to shorten charging time.
At 414 lbs, Zero’s SR is certainly the lightest of the different motorcycles mentioned in this article which surely helps with the motorcycle’s efficiency but also makes handling easier, especially for the smaller riders out there.

An electric motorcycle that is slightly heavier but has the power to quickly make a rider forget about that weight is Lightning Motorcycles LS-218, suitably called ‘the world’s fastest production electric motorcycle.’ It claims several land speed records and won the motorcycle field at Pikes Peak in 2013, making it the first electric bike to beat out all its gas-powered counterparts.

Lightning's LS-218

For pure performance, there really doesn’t seem to be a rival to Lightning’s LS-218 but it will cost you. Aside from bragging rights at the local bike night, the LS-218 will deliver a top speed of 218 mph from its 200hp engine.
The only model from Lightning Motorcycles, the Electric SuperBike has a usable freeway speed range of over 100 miles and a combined city and highway EPA range of over 150 miles. One of the reasons the batteries can offer such great range while delivering the immense amount of power it does comes from the motorcycle’s regenerative mode, which essentially uses the motion of the bike to create energy. Recharging this sleek ride takes from 30 minutes to two hours depending on the charging solution a rider uses.

The LS-218 is not only named after its top speed but also built to order, which can fudge the definition of a production motorcycle, but it’s a technicality which doesn’t really matter when screaming down the road in all your electric madness. With its rich record-breaking and race-winning heritage, this is a performance motorcycle and comes with the mechanics you would expect. Brembo brakes, Marchesini forged magnesium wheels and upgradable Öhlins FGRT inverted fork gives a good idea of what type of rider Lightning has in mind.

There is competition for that same type of rider from Energica, an Italian Motorcycle manufacturer with their two electric superbike models, the Ego and Eva. Calling their bikes ‘the world’s first Italian racing-bred electric motorcycle’, the Ego brings 136 horsepower and 145 lb-ft of torque giving the rider a top speed of 150mph. According to Energica, that speed is factory ‘limited’, so read that how you will.
The parent company is CRP called ‘a pioneer in the world of international motorsports and a hub of excellence for its state- of-the-art technologies’ on the Energica’s website.

Energica's Ego and Eva

Energica Ego

Range of the Ego runs from 60 to 100 miles depending on what type of riding a biker does. Battery charge times range from 3.5 hours to as little as 30 minutes depending on what recharging road you ride. At 568 lbs, this is the heaviest of motorcycles featured in this electric roundup but it’s also the most luxurious. The Ego includes four riding modes, a 4.3" TFT color display dashboard, complete with integrated GPS and Bluetooth as well as a gear for reverse.

Energica Eva

The green heart of Energica Ego is a synchronous oil-cooled motor with permanent magnets. As mentioned above, the motorcycle is geared towards riders looking for that performance edge, consequently the Ego enjoys latest generation ABS BOSCH brakes, Pirelli Diablo Rosso II tires and rear wheel lift control.

The only other production electric motorcycle possibility is the latest belle to the ball, Victory’s Empluse TT. The electric motorcycle borrows heavily from Brammo, an electric motorcycle manufacturing company acquired by Polaris in January 2015.
The motorcycle is capable of top speeds over 100 mph, an upper range of 100 miles and an average range of 65 miles. The battery is of the high-capacity 10.4kWh variety featuring a built-in battery charger. The engine enjoys 54 hp which delivers a peak torque of 61 ft-lbs which as mentioned earlier, delivers a top speed only given as ‘over 100 mph’.

With the electric motorcycle market as it is now, riders have distinct and obvious choices based on what’s wanted in a bike or how they like to ride. Those who are more into cruising than speed or may use their ride for commuting should consider Zero’s SR. Riders who are all about the lean and speak of torque as if it were a beautiful woman would want to look at Lightning’s LS-218 or Energica’s Ego. At a glance, whether a rider values electronic accessories or raw power may separate those two types of buyers. It will be interesting to see where Victory’s entry to this electric world performs and consequently what type of buyer it will attract.

Regardless, motorcycle enthusiasts are facing what automobile owners have long debated; measuring lifestyle and needs against range, recharging ability against the electrical system at home. Regardless, at the end of any debate, discussion or determination about an all-electric purchase, the one truth at the end of a yes is incredible performance and undisputed bragging rights.
We would like to hear of your choices and opinion. Leave us a comment below...

Lane position.

Being smaller than the majority of road users is both an advantage and disadvantage of riding a motorcycle. However, many riders don’t give much active consideration to how they can apply a motorcycle’s advantages to help mitigate its disadvantages. Thanks to lane positioning options afforded by a bike’s smaller size, we can take proactive steps to keep those big, lumbering cars from becoming overly intimate with us.

The width of cars pretty much limits them to one place within a lane. If their driver can just keep it between the lines, they’re golden. Motorcycles, thanks to their being narrow, single-track vehicles, have a seemingly infinite number of slices within a lane that they can occupy. However, for the sake of simplicity, we’ll divide the lane into thirds: left, right and center. Think of these as lanes within the lane. Your choice of position within the lane can do two important things.

First, by creating a protective bubble of space around you (a “space cushion” so to speak), you can give yourself more time to react should an inattentive car driver start claiming more than his fair share of the road (as is usually the case here in Lagos). If you are traveling in the left lane overtaking a car on your right, you will be less vulnerable if you ride in the left third of the lane(Labelled 1) when passing through the car’s blind spot. Similarly, if a car is overtaking you, move to the third of the lane opposite that vehicle (Labelled 3).

The second benefit of lane positioning is that you can make yourself more visible to other traffic. If you’re following a car, stay in the center third so that your headlight can’t be missed in a car’s rear view mirror. Do the same when traveling in front of a car, too – but remember that a tail light doesn’t capture a driver’s attention as well as your high beam. When overtaking a car on its left, you can combine space cushioning with lane placement for better visibility.

As you approach the car, make sure you are in the right third of your lane (Lane 1), keeping your headlight in the car’s side mirror. Just before you enter the car’s blind spot, move to the left third of the lane and immediately move back to the right third once you are safely past the car. This keeps you as far as possible from the car when the driver can’t see you, but inserts your motorcycle back into their field of vision as you move in front of them. Your movement from the left to the right third of the lane should also attract the driver’s attention, pointing out that there’s someone new in front of them. As you navigate through traffic, you will constantly need to adjust your lane position to maximize your space cushion and visibility.

Unfortunately, traffic situations in this Lagos don’t always occur in ways that allow you to deal with them individually or professionally. Sometimes, if you pause for a moment, they will naturally separate in the flow of traffic, but in most cases, you’ll have to take what you’re given. In these instances, address the issues simultaneously.

If cars are both on the left and the right of your intended path of travel, choosing either side of the lane would compromise your space cushion with one of the vehicles. So, you’ll need to split the difference to get the most separation possible from both by passing them in the middle third of the lane. This is not an ideal situation with either car or your motorcycle and I would advice you wait it out if your a decently new rider. However it does give you the best option for this scenario.

Make a game out of plotting the route you’d take while observing traffic – even if you’re not riding at the time. After all, isn’t having to constantly interact with your surroundings in an intellectually active way one of the attractions of riding? If you just wanted to sit on your ass traveling from point A to B, you’d be in a car…talking on a cell phone.

Finally, many riders neglect to consider the message they are sending to drivers with their lane position. The sad truth is that, as fewer people use their turn signals, drivers are being forced to make assumptions based on limited information about what the other road users are going to do.

So, consider the signals you send to other road users through your actions within your lane. For example, how you would appear to an oncoming car when you ride in the left third of the left lane as you both approach an intersection? Your lane position could be misinterpreted as preparing to turn left, which could prompt the other driver to initiate his turn right in front of you. Instead, shift to the right third of your lane as you approach the intersection.

Could your shift to the right third of the lane be sending a different message when it occurs on a two-lane road rather than a four-lane one? Moving to the center of your lane on a two lane road would not give you as much of a space cushion, but there is less of a chance that your move will be interpreted as preparing to turn right than if you’d moved all the way over to the right third.

Either way, by moving away from the other car, you’ve increased your space cushion and clearly stated that you have no intention of turning left. Another benefit is that by switching positions, you’ve caused your headlight to waver, drawing the distracted driver’s attention to you.

As with any other riding skill, the more you use it, the more natural it becomes, so practice on every ride. Gradually, your choices of lane positioning will become intuitive, leaving you to use more of your concentration analyzing the traffic ahead of you – or just simply enjoying the ride.

The 'Ride out' is upon us!

Firstly I must apologize for my absence from the blog this past week. In short the past few weeks have been quite tasking both in my personal life and career-wise.
I like writing the blog and I really like interacting with my readers. I enjoy it.
And I sincerely apologise for not bringing you the usual.

That being said.

Who's ready to hit the road?

The 'Ride out' was born out of the need for budding and experienced riders to ride long distances, improve their skills, get out of the bustle called Lagos and at the same time not incure the inconvenience of sleeping out.

The 2nd edition for this year's ride out is here... Hit us up if:-

1. You're interested
2. Own a motorcycle 250cc and above
3. Own and use full motorcycle riding gear.
4. You have been trained and have been riding within the past 3months.

Catch ya!

Akure in 60 seconds!

If you've been following our instagram handle, then you'd by now be in the full know that this past weekend was fun filled for all riders in the west african sub-region. From lectures with the Federal Road Safety Corporation to Cardio-Pulmonary resuscitation training to a hosting by the Deji of Akure to a trip to Idanre hills and more... It was an awesome time. A couple of bikers from Lagos were there. I'd let the pictures tell the stories!