Wednesday, 30 March 2016

Handling Numbness in the hands.

Motorcycle Riding Tip.

 

 

Numb hands while riding is a common problem that’s sometimes accompanied by tingling or a pins and needles feeling. Some people experience this problem within a half hour of getting on their bike while others suffer only on long distance rides.

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Tuesday, 29 March 2016

Handling your motorcycle bars correctly.



 


Surely how you hold the motorcycle throttle should be simple and straightforward, but it’s not.

Everyone agrees you should have a relaxed grip and never use the throttle to hold on to the bike. “Throttling” the throttle will lead to jerky acceleration over bumps and after some time it will cramp your hand.

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Thursday, 24 March 2016

Make a Habit of Regular Motorcycle Maintenance




So you've taken delivery of that dream bike? Fantastic: you'll likely save money on gas, parking, and repairs. But before you ride off into the sunset, plan a regular maintenance routine that will help ensure you'll be riding that bike for years to come.

Create a Check-Up Checklist

Developing a motorcycle maintenance checklist can help you avoid costly (and unnecessary) repairs and potential safety issues. It's also a good idea to become familiar with your bike's owner's manual as maintenance requirements can vary between models. If you don't have the owner's manual, you'll likely find it available online.

Check these features regularly:

Tires: Stay aware of the tread depth and look for unusual wear patterns. Always make sure they're at the correct pressure; under-inflated tires are prone to blowouts and over-inflated tires wear more quickly. Read our post on Tire wear here.

Oil: Check the level every week or so and top it off if necessary. Changing your oil is a simple, cheap way to keep your bike in good shape. If your bike is older or you ride it regularly for long distances, you'll need to change your oil more often. Synthetic oil is more expensive, but it makes the need for changes less frequent. Refer to your owner's manual for info on how often to change your bike's oil and the recommended grade of oil.

Lights and signals: Check your headlights, brake lights, high and low beams, and turn signals regularly. Since they won't necessarily show wear—and can actually just quit working suddenly—set up a reminder. The last thing you want is to be stranded because your lights stopped working.

Battery: Examine your battery and cables for corrosion or loose connections. Use a mixture of baking soda and water to clean the connections, then scrub with a household toothbrush. Use a voltmeter to test the battery and a charger if it's depleted. You don't want to be caught out in the cold—literally—with a bike that won't start.

Brakes: Keep an eye on brake pad thickness and brake fluid level. When brake pads wear thin, your ability to stop quickly and efficiently is compromised. Top off low brake fluid to the "full" mark or change it according to your owner's manual instructions.

Chain: Use a commercial spray to lubricate the chain liberally and often, especially if you're riding your bike every day. Dryness causes friction that can lead to poor performance or, worse yet, a chain that breaks while you're riding.

Fuel: Examine the fuel lines, keeping an eye out for leaks or other damage.

Oil, air, and fuel filters: Regularly check them to maintain optimal engine performance and efficiency. Your owner's manual will provide replacement intervals.

Steering: Check and tighten your handlebars and the steering nut. Turn the bars to make sure your steering feels smooth and tight and replace the bearings if the steering feels loose in any way.

Schedule a Yearly Tune-Up

 Even the most dedicated gearhead should take the bike to a shop for service every once in a while. A professional mechanic is trained to spot potential hazards you may have overlooked. Especially if your bike's been stored away for a while.

Make Sure You're Really Geared Up
Proper riding gear cannot be over-emphasized. For starters, you'll need a DOT or Snell-certified helmet, full eye protection, heavy-duty leathers, over-the-ankle riding boots, and full-fingered leather gloves. Retail shops abound within the Lagos metropolis.

Prepare for the Worst-Case Scenario
Staying on top of your maintenance checklist will go a long way toward keeping your bike in top condition. But breakdowns are unpredictable, so be sure to carry a motorcycle repair and tire inflation kit in your storage pouch.

Download the Bikers of Lagos Motorcycle preventive maintenance checklist here

Have something to contribute? Leave us a comment below...
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Tuesday, 22 March 2016

Lane splitting right!



Lane splitting is one of my ‘favourite-est’ things about riding a motorcycle. Especially in Lagos, Nigeria where traffic can go from 0-2000 cars in minutes. There is something magical about being able to go wherever you want regardless of the horrible traffic conditions, getting there fast and without spending a ton of money on gas. To do this effectively, lane splitting is inevitable. Reason: If you lane split on your commute to and from work and save an hour per day, you'll get back over a week of your life every year. Would you rather sit in a car, being frustrated and wishing you were somewhere else, or cruise home stress-free on a motorcycle in 1/3 of the time?
Watching riders split lanes while sitting low down, in a line of traffic, in a car can look pretty scary. But look at it from a rider's point of view. High up and sitting in the gap, there's plenty of room to make safe progress and spot lane changes before they occur. Before we continue, let’s talk dressing.

Wear Safety Gear

This cannot be over-emphasized. If you ride in Lagos and decide to do so with partial gear or none, then I think you have a death wish. That being said, consider this: You’re attempting to occupy the space of a car with something barely larger than a bicycle and drivers who are pissed at sitting in traffic. Lagos drivers will always try to change lanes. Sometimes they might not see or hear you coming and change lanes into you. Always wear All The Gear, All The Time (ATGATT). Even for a short stroll.
Lane splitting is dangerous. You could die or seriously injure yourself. Know that if you're wearing anything less than high-quality protective gear head-to-toe, you are increasing your chances of bloody broken knees and ankles, a broken back or shattered and bloody jaw. Invest in armored pants or Kevlar jeans, boots with ankle protection, a back protector and a DOT, Snell or ECE certified helmet.
Lane-splitting is more like racing than any other kind of riding. It demands your full concentration; there is very little room for error and, if you crash, it can get ugly in a hurry.

The Basic Rules

Choose your exit. On the freeway, the safest practice is to split between the furthest left lane and the second furthest left lane. These lanes usually contain the sanest drivers on Lagos highways and little or no trucks/trailers. I know what you're thinking and yes, a lot of times Lagosians drive in any lane. In fact they drive on the curbs sometimes. Like I said, the safest exit is between the first and second lanes. It's perfectly fine to split between any two lanes of traffic and on surfaced streets, but not the safest. I for one just look for the widest gap and go for that.

Use stop-lights to your advantage especially on the surfaced streets, you can. When cars are stopped, they aren't going to change lanes into you. I know it sounds obvious, but this is a big difference and something you should keep in mind. When you catch a pack of cars at a traffic light, pick your route through them and pay close attention to the light as well. If it turns green before you reach the front, you'll be right in the middle of the pack. Know when the cars are going to start moving again before they do and you'll avoid a lot of trouble.

You should always move slightly faster than traffic. Going too slowly is actually very dangerous. You end up spending a lot of time next to cars, where drivers can't see you and where you're not paying attention to them. But, if you go too fast, you won't have enough time to look at and judge cars before you pass them. The ideal speed will change depending on a variety of factors. 

You should never ride next to a car. They will invariably try to change lanes into you. There's a reason Nick Lenatsch calls this the death zone. Plan your move, set the car up and make your pass. Don't whack the throttle wide open as cars often do stupid things at the last second, but get past as quickly as possible without drawing attention to yourself. Just like riding on a track, smoothness is key.

If you catch another motorcycle, be patient for a second. They're concentrating just as hard as you are and it might take them a second to see you. If they don't, flash your lights a few times to get their attention. If they don't have mirrors or aren't checking them, it's perfectly acceptable to beep the horn. Most riders will slip in between cars and let you by. Be nice and wave when people do this. If a rider sees you and refuses to let you by, this is not the time to be aggressive. Either slow down to their pace and live with it or move over a lane and go around. If you notice someone on your tail, move over as soon as is convenient to let them by. Use hand signals to motion them ahead and wave.

Technicalities

Lane splitting has its own set of special riding techniques to master. Dragging the rear brake to smooth things out at low speed is a common enough skill, but it's extra useful here. If you have an awkward hiccup rolling off and back on the throttle between cars, you may run out of room and crash.

Speaking of awkward moments, you'll have one if your front brake lever makes contact with a car's mirror. Pay special attention to the space between car mirrors and your bars.
Once you make it past the tightly packed rows of stopped cars at an intersection, pull to one side to let other bikes though. It's never a fun to be stuck between cars when the light turns green. Keep the bike in gear too, when the signal changes you can take off immediately and get out in front of the cars. This is one most satisfying feelings you'll have riding on the street. Most of the time, things will go smoothly and you'll get to do that.

There will be other times when you come across a stake-bed gardener truck and have no hope of getting past. Make sure the cars around you understand what you're doing and try again at the next light. Traffic often loosens up once cars start moving and if those people know there's a motorcyclist, they'll usually move over and let you by. Sometimes the gardener truck appears out of nowhere. In these sort of situations, you're reminded of why you don't just fly through stopped traffic at 50mph. Getting stopped from 8mph can even be a challenge sometimes. Your best defense against people opening their doors, pulling out of hidden driveways and others making last ditch efforts at lane changes is to slow down and pay close attention to what is going on around you.

Focus: What's going on in your head?

More than technical operating skills, splitting lanes requires the ability to be present, evaluate and make advance decisions about your course of travel while maintaining the ability to react quickly to unexpected events.

More than anything else, you need to use your eyes to take in as much as you can about your environment. This means seeing more than just what your eyes are focused on. When I'm blasting through traffic on the E1 (a.k.a third mainland bridge), I'm not picking out things to focus on or look at, but instead keeping my eyes up and forward with a focal point somewhere roughly an 1/8 mile ahead of me. If you have targets, you run the risk to fixate on them, block everything else out and set a collision course. Don't do that. Keep your field of view wide and avoid focusing on one specific thing. The immediate foreground isn't in focus, but I still give it awareness. Learn to use the out of focus corners of your vision and if a car grabs your attention, slow down and make sure it's safe to pass them. At first, this will be extremely hard and will limit your speed. If people surprise you and you feel an adrenaline rush, that's bad. Slow down until you can see where you're going and where you are. When you're first starting out, it will be mentally draining to pay so much attention to so many different things. Take it easy and you'll get better. Once you can see all the cars, start paying attention to the negative space between them. Search for narrow spots and prepare for them in advance.

In addition to mentally calculating your position in relation to others, you must also be able to evaluate traffic to spot untrustworthy drivers. It's like a Rorschach test you don't want to fail. Look in the driver’s mirrors and back windows. Are they talking on the phone, watching a movie, eating/shaving/brushing their teeth, screaming at their kids, etc.? These people are what I would call untrustworthy. You can't depend on them to stay in the center of their lane, use their turn signals or look before they make snap lane changes.

Be extremely judgmental toward other drivers. If there's ever a time to stop being politically correct, it's when you're sandwiched between lanes on the highway. Start profiling. Is that lady driving an Escalade on 24" rims while texting on her rhinestone encrusted Blackberry? Does she have a "Children are a gift from God sticker" on her back bumper? When I see this lady, I give her a wide berth. How about the guy in the '89 Civic with a double-decker wing, coffee can exhaust, seat leaned WAY back and broken driver side mirror? How about the old, vaguely northern man in the beat to shit minivan? Would you trust these people with your life? If a person gives me any reason to think that they might be aggressive, absent minded, stupid or is otherwise suspicious, I give them my full attention. People in unfamiliar places (I'm looking at you 93 year old Igbo man with Ebonyi plates in the 190 Benz) tend to dart across 4 lanes of traffic to make that off-ramp they weren't expecting. People that have a lot of bumper stickers tend to do make bad decisions. Riders of Goldwings and Harleys will often attempt to lane-split, holding you up, and rarely check their mirrors. Don't even get me started on Danfo drivers. When you come across anyone that doesn't immediately come off as a competent and trustworthy driver, slow down and wait for them to make whatever bad move it is they're going to make. If it seems like it's going to be awhile, go around or wait for them to stop and proceed cautiously.

There are no hard and fast rules on who you can trust, but I've found that if you commute on your motorcycle, you'll notice that you end up seeing the same people every day. You'll cross paths with the same motorcyclists on opposite sides of the highway, and see many of the same car drivers. Knowing the roads and freeways you ride help quite a bit as well.

Watch for patterns

You need to develop a sixth sense to tell you what cars are going to do before they do it. Don't worry, that's not as paranormal as it sounds. On the highway, is one lane of traffic slowing down while another continues apace? If so, expect drivers to try and dart from the slowing lane into the one where traffic is still flowing. In stopped traffic, has one lane started move before another? Again, expect drivers to shift into lanes with higher speeds, even if its futile.

Riding between lanes of equal speed traffic, watch for gaps to open up that cars could turn into. Avoid sitting next to those gaps. Sometimes, passing two cars while they're next to each other is safer than waiting until one is in front of the other. If a car has no way to shift lanes, then it probably won't.

Take advantage of the safety benefits
While navigating a constantly shifting, unpredictable, deadly obstacle course does have its risks, splitting lanes will help you overcome some of the inherent safety deficiencies a motorcycle is saddled with.

Be Reasonable, be Responsible, be Respectful, be aware of all Roadway and traffic conditions.

- Be Reasonable means not more than 10 MPH faster than in-city traffic flow and not over 30 MPH on the freeway.
- Be Responsible for your own safety and decisions.
•             Don't put yourself in dangerous positions.
•             If you can't fit, don't split.
- Be Respectful --- sharing the road goes both ways.
•             Don't rely on loud pipes to keep you safe, loud pipes often startle people and poison the attitude of car drivers toward motorcyclists.
•             Other vehicles are not required to make space for motorcycles to lane split.
- Be aware Roadways and traffic can be hazardous.
•             Uneven pavement
•             Wide trucks
•             Distracted drivers
•             Weather conditions
•             Curves, Etc.

We'd be glad to hear from you in the comments section below.
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Monday, 21 March 2016

2016 MotoGP: Qatar Qualifying Results


Lorenzo leads the pack.

 

 Jorge Lorenzo wins the season-opening Qatar MotoGP from Marc Marquez and Andrea Dovizioso, whose team-mate Andrea Iannone fell from second earlier in the race.

Danilo Petrucci was absent after further damaging his injured right hand...

1. Jorge Lorenzo ESP Movistar Yamaha MotoGP (YZR-M1) 42m 28.452s
2. Andrea Dovizioso ITA Ducati Team (Desmosedici GP16) 42m 30.471s
3. Marc Marquez ESP Repsol Honda Team (RC213V) 42m 30.739s
4. Valentino Rossi ITA Movistar Yamaha MotoGP (YZR-M1) 42m 30.839s
5. Dani Pedrosa ESP Repsol Honda Team (RC213V) 42m 42.535s
6. Maverick Viñales ESP Team Suzuki Ecstar (GSX-RR) 42m 43.875s
7. Pol Espargaro ESP Monster Yamaha Tech 3 (YZR-M1) 42m 47.081s
8. Bradley Smith GBR Monster Yamaha Tech 3 (YZR-M1) 42m 47.104s
9. Hector Barbera ESP Avintia Racing (Desmosedici GP14.2) 42m 49.612s
10. Scott Redding GBR Octo Pramac Yakhnich (Desmosedici GP15) 42m 52.887s
11. Aleix Espargaro ESP Team Suzuki Ecstar (GSX-RR) 43m 4.299s
12. Eugene Laverty IRL Aspar MotoGP Team (Desmosedici GP14.2) 43m 10.208s
13. Alvaro Bautista ESP Factory Aprilia Gresini (RS-GP) 43m 10.384s
14. Jack Miller AUS Estrella Galicia 0,0 Marc VDS (RC213V) 43m 10.434s
15. Tito Rabat ESP Estrella Galicia 0,0 Marc VDS (RC213V)* 43m 23.405s
Stefan Bradl GER Factory Aprilia Gresini (RS-GP) DNF
Loris Baz FRA Avintia Racing (Desmosedici GP14.2) DNF
Cal Crutchlow GBR LCR Honda (RC213V) DNF
Andrea Iannone ITA Ducati Team (Desmosedici GP16) DNF
Yonny Hernandez COL Aspar MotoGP Team (Desmosedici GP14.2) DNF

Blue Name = No Concessions.
7 engine changes for the season. Engines must be identical throughout season within same team (development freeze). 5 days of private testing.
Black Name = Concessions.
9 engine changes. No engine development freeze. Unlimited private testing.
* Rookie


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Choosing brake pads!


 Things to consider when choosing brake pads...



Brake lever getting soft? Bike not stopping as quickly? Time for new brakes? The answer is most likely yes. Depending on how many miles your motorcycle has you may also need some new rotors and a change of brake fluid. I am going to focus on choosing the right brake pads for your riding style and motorcycle.
Most stock brake pads leave a lot to be desired. They are a compromise designed to get decent stopping power, reasonably long life, and to do so quietly so as not to offend new owners with excess noise.
In order to choose the right brake pads for your riding, we first need to discuss the kinds of brake pads offered. There are three types that we will cover here. Organic, semi sintered, and sintered are the most commonly used on street or dual sport oriented motorcycles.

Organic brake pads are made from aromatic polyamides more commonly known as Aramid fiber; different manufacturers have different compounds and names for what they use. The most well-known aramid materials are Kevlar, Nomex, and New Star. Organic pads are noted for their additional "feel" by riders. In normal street use they will stop as well as a sintered brake pad with similar wear. They generally have expansion grooves to prevent cracking and make them quieter.
Semi sintered is a combination of materials using 30% of the copper metal content that a full sintered brake pad has, along with an organic friction material. This gives you close to the durability of a full sintered brake pad a very wide operating temperature, with less wear and heat transfer to the braking system. These can also be called semi-metallic brake pads. They offer the "feel" of an organic combined with the stopping power and wear of the sintered. These also tend to be a cleaner pad with less dusting on the wheels.
Sintering is the process of heating and fusing under pressure metallic particles with other elements that enhance wear properties and stopping friction. Copper is the primary metal used in a sintered brake pad, besides being the main component of the pad material it is also used to coat the backing plate. For outright braking performance no organic brake pad can stop as well as a full sintered brake pad. Sintered brake pads have the highest heat range but can transfer that heat to the brake fluid causing it to boil under extreme riding. Manufacturers will install a secondary thin metal backing plate to prevent some of this heat transfer. Sintered brake pads will also be the longest lasting brake pad because of the high metal content and other friction materials, this is more important under very hard use and will only offer a limited benefit under normal riding.

So how do you choose the right brake pad? There are multiple manufacturers on the market, Brembo, Galfer, Tokico and more. They all make very good brake pads and almost all of them make matching rotors and other parts allowing you the ability to get everything you need from one vendor. In the following steps I will go through the process of selecting new brake pads for my own motorcycle.

Step One: Using your owner’s manual, local dealer, or internet find out what kind of brake pad came installed on your motorcycle. If you liked its performance, wear and how it felt look for a similar material.

Step Two: Decide what’s most important to you. Maximum braking for hard riding, cost, long life, or clean and quiet? You can always go with some combination of features as well.
For example: I want a cleaner wearing brake pad with reasonable life that offers good braking performance and feel. 😋

Step Three: Armed with this information find a manufacturer who makes a brake pad that fits your motorcycle and offers the type of material, and features to fit your needs. Not all manufacturers make a brake pad for every motorcycle, the ideal brake pad for you may not be available and some compromises may have to be made. That’s why step two is very important.

Step Four: Buy your new brake pads and enjoy improved stopping!

Did we skip anything? Let us know your opinion below!
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Friday, 18 March 2016

Do's and Dont's of Emergency braking!




Emergency braking is the most crucial safety skill you can learn, and one you’ll have to use a lot in Lagos state. If you suddenly find a car turning in front of you, it’s often your only way out. Here’s some easy do’s and don’ts to keep in mind when it comes to emergency braking on a motorcycle.

Do: Progressively Squeeze The Lever

Starting gently and working up to max pressure will transfer the motorcycle’s weight to the front wheel and compresses the tire, expanding its contact patch and increasing its grip.

Don’t: Just Grab A Handful

Even with ABS, simply going straight to max brake pressure will overwhelm the front tire’s grip and cause it to skid. If you don’t have ABS, that will likely lead to a wipe out. If you do, you just won’t be achieving an optimal rate of deceleration.

Do: Use Both Brakes

Even on bikes that don’t come with handlebar tassels, where the weight bias is dramatically forward under braking, the rear tire may retain contact with the road and even have a little traction, so using both brakes will help slow you down.

Don’t: Rely On The Back Brake Only

Not only is the back brake less powerful than the front brake, weight is also transferred off the rear brake under deceleration which reduces the rear tire’s traction.

Do: Be Aware Of Traffic Around You

It’s no good going to maximum braking power only to be swatted by the texting SUV driver tailgating you. Ride defensively at all times and try to create a “bubble” of space around you at all times. This will give you room to take evasive maneuvers like emergency braking should you need it.

Don’t: Let Other Vehicles Dictate Your Safety

Ride in such a manner that you control your relationship with other traffic. Don’t find yourself in a situation where another motorist is able to tailgate you or restrict your vision. Move through traffic with authority and confidence.

Do: Plan Ahead

As you’re riding, you need to be constantly scanning your entire area — above and below and to the side and behind you — but pay particular attention to where you’re going and look as far ahead as possible. As cars pull up to intersections or other traffic movements occur, plan how you’ll deal with each one, then put that plan into action.

Don’t: Get Taken By Surprise

Surprise creates panic, panic creates accidents. Use your superior vision — move around in your lane and alter your distance from other vehicles in order to maximize it — and develop a sixth sense capable of predicting what other people are about to do. Identify potential risks before they threaten you, then avoid them before they become a problem.

Do: Practice

Motorcycles have exceptional braking abilities, but conversely, their brakes are exceptionally difficult to master. Go find a big, empty parking lot and spend half a day familiarizing yourself with your motorcycle’s abilities and working up from a walking pace until you’re able to confidently bring your bike to a commanding halt from normal road speeds.

Don’t: Rely On Something You Don’t Know How To Use

How fast can your motorcycle stop? What happens when the rear wheel starts to lift off the ground? How much back brake can you use before that wheel locks? What does it feel like to lock the front wheel? You should know the answers to all these questions by heart.

Do: Brake Hard!

You rear wheel might lift up, the ABS might kick in, you might pee your pants a little bit, but every MPH that you can lose before hitting something will incrementally reduce impact forces, thereby reducing your chances of injury or death. What might kill you at 40 mph may only send you home with bruises at 30. And that’s a mere fraction of a second of max braking apart.

Don’t: Let Go

Trust your bike and your abilities. Your best bet to avoid the accident or reduce its severity lies in braking, not in bailing.

What is your best advice for fellow writers when it comes to emergency braking?
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Thursday, 17 March 2016

Cleaning, Conditioning and Weather proofing your leather motorcycle gear...




Motorcycle jackets, suits, gloves and boots represent a significant financial investment. And, like any investment, you need to take care of it, ensuring you get the highest return. Luckily, with leathers, that’s easy. Here’s how to clean, protect and weatherproof your leather motorcycle gear.

Wait oh, I Need To Maintain This Stuff?

Yes! It always surprises me how few of my friends take care of their leathers. And how often readers express surprise that you’re supposed to do this. That’s crazy, with a little TLC, leather can last a lifetime and the process described here will improve the looks of any item while also weatherproofing it. Yes, a leather jacket can keep you dry in a rainstorm, if you’ve oiled it. The product will fill the pores in the leather, preventing water from doing the same.

Neglected leather will weaken over time and eventually split and tear.

This works whether you’ve got a fancy Dainese suit or a humble black leather jacket. It also works on imitation or vinyl-coated leather, like the kind your boots are probably made out of.

Day-To-Day Maintenance


Pick up a huge bargain-size bin of unscented baby wipes. Any brand will do. But, do try and find the unscented kind so you don’t leave faint whiffs of diaper in your wake.

Leather is skin, so it needs the same type of care — cleaning and moisturizing — as your own hands and face do. If you don’t bother, it’ll have the same problems. It’ll dry out and eventually crack.

To keep your leather goods in decent shape, just give them a scrub down with those baby wipes whenever they’ve gotten dirty or wet or after a long trip or just when you feel like they need it. With time, you’ll develop a sense for when your leather needs a little maintenance.

Types Of Leather And What To Use On Them


Top-grain or oil-tanned leather: this is “real” leather. It’s what your jacket, suit, pants and gloves are made out of. You can see the leather texture on the surface. On it, you can use any leather conditioner, oil, cream or other product. 


Imitation leather or Lorica: If you have a pair of modern motorcycle boots, they’re probably made from Lorica, which is just a name brand for imitation leather. Just use those baby wipes or soap and water.


Vinyl-coated leather: know how military boots can polish up to a mirror finish? That’s because they’re treated with a vinyl top coat. 


Step One: Clean It


If your leather apparel has taken a real beating, you’ll need to give it a good clean before applying the dressing or lotion. Get a bucket or bowl and fill it with warm, soapy water. Use a mild soap, like you’d use in the shower. Again, don’t over think it, just use regular soap, but try and avoid dish detergent or other really harsh stuff. Grab a wash cloth, go sit on your porch or somewhere else you can make a mess and give everything a good scrub. Try and get all the road debris and pollution and bugs off. Rinse and hang it up to air dry, *Do not Wring or squeeze* then move to the next step.



Step Two: Condition It


Grabbed the right product for the job? Find a comfy seat with the leather item in your lap and start rubbing it into the leather with your hands. Starting with the small panels before moving onto the bigger ones works best.

Don’t bother with a cloth or sponge, just use your hands. It makes less of a mess and is more effective. Really try and work the product into the leather with a good, firm massage. Apply enough product to generously coat each panel, but there’s no need to go overboard.

Your leathers will initially feel greasy. Once you’ve finished massaging the product into the entire item, put it on a hanger and hang it up somewhere that it’s not going to transfer that grease to other clothing. Leave it overnight and by morning you’ll have a piece of leather gear that looks better than new, is stronger than before and should be capable of keeping you dry in a rainstorm for an hour or more.

Doing this also maintains the patina your item of gear has developed over time, as well as makes the leather healthier, stronger and more supple. There are only positive results and no downsides to this routine, so don’t hesitate, start maintaining your leathers today.


Step Three: Shine it


For those who appreciate the gleam, a decently sized piece of clean foam would do this trick. Rub the foam across the leather briskly to provide an even and smooth shine.



Do you take care of your leathers? What methods and products do you use? Let us know in the comments section below.
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Tuesday, 15 March 2016

Concept Motorcycle Models that are now in production!

Over the past week, I've been intrigued at what the future generation might ride. So I set out to see what the big names have brewing and oh boy! Did I bite more than I could chew?



Let’s begin with Honda whose latest concept is part motorcycle, part spaceship (lol). I browsed through its frankfurt debut and noticed that, rather than a traditional instrument cluster, the concept uses a pico projector. This blocky bike feels like a vision of the future as imagined by a video game designer from the mid-90s.
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Monday, 14 March 2016

KTM Freerides to world record altitude for electric motorcycles


The Electrics have it...






Francisco López, KTM's Chilean rally raid rider, climbed the world's highest active volcano on the saddle of an electric Freeride E-XC. Reaching up to 6,080 m above sea level constitutes a new Guinness World Record altitude for electric powered motorcycles.
The Ojos del Salado on the Andes mountain range sits right on the border of Argentina and Chile, reaching up to an altitude of 6,893 m (22,615 ft). The highest active volcano of the world was selected by KTM for a record-setting attempt that would display the capabilities of its electric off-road model line.
Francisco "Chaleco" López is a rider with ample experience in all forms of off-road racing, from Motocross and Enduro to Rally Raid. Having built himself a strong reputation after his stage-winning performance over the years at the Dakar Rally, the Chilean prepared for several months for this endeavor.



Facing challenging terrain in low-oxygen conditions and temperatures below -25º C (-13º F), López spent enough time on the volcano in order to acclimatize himself with the conditions he would face during his record attempt.
As far as the motorcycle is concerned, the main issue at hand was the batteries' performance. Only small modifications were made on the stock Freeride E-XC, in an effort to ensure that circuits wouldn't freeze and the batteries would still be able to retain their charge at very low temperatures.



The challenge unfolded in stages from 2,000 to 4,000 m (6,562-13,123 ft), before setting up base camp at 4,500 m (14,764 ft) for the final assault. From there López managed to ride his motorcycle up to 6,080 m (19,947 ft), confirming a new official Guinness World Record.
Four batteries were required for the climb to the record altitude, after which a huge area of iced rocks and snow made the last 800 m inaccessible.
"The bike handles very well, but the biggest thing we needed to achieve was to keep the batteries in good condition in the -25 degrees we faced there," said López.



"When I knew I had accomplished my goal and that the difficulties of finding the right path, moving slabs of snow, and knowing we had to make it on that particular moment, I raised my arms and started screaming like crazy with happiness. It was not easy and I gave it everything. The sacrifice was worth it and all the physical work and teamwork paid off."
The following video offers a brief, yet exciting view at the record-setting effort.

*sorry I could not lay hands on an english version* 



 Don't forget to let us know your thoughts via the comments section below! Gracias!!

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Saturday, 12 March 2016

And so it begins...

The West African Bikers Converge....




Members of the Amazons MC, Utibe-Abasi Nkanga, Joann Ekezie Otaru and a friend head out of lagos Nigeria.
 The we.abc is upon us again and preparations are in full gear across the western coast of africa. In the same vein a couple of delegates left nigeria on sunday the 6th of march to Ivory coast to partake in activities which lead up to the final converge in akure later next month... 


Joined on the way in Accra by Akua, a female police biker from Ghana.





Safe Arrival at their hotel in Ivory Coast
Warm smiles. A good ride always has this effect.

 
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Friday, 11 March 2016

Motorcycling myths and legends



We’ve all heard the tall stories about what will happen to you if you ride a motorcycle, the weird things you can do to make your bike faster or what to do if you crash. Most, if not all, don't hold water. Here's what we know for sure.

1. You should lay down your bike if you’re going to crash.


It’s never going to happen. For one thing most accidents happen so quickly that as a rider you’re simply not going to have the time to think about doing this. It’s also a bit odd that you should try and crash before potentially hitting whatever risks you’re about to encounter. As RideApart's Wes Siler pointed out in his recent article – 10 Motorcycle Accidents and How to Avoid Them – never, ever try and lay your bike down. It’s not going to help. Instead, shed as much speed as you can, stay upright and use both your brakes.

2. Race tires will make me and my bike faster on the road.


Uh, no. Motorcycle race tires are completely different from road tires. They have different compounds and properties and are designed to work best when really hot to create grip. You’re rarely going to get a set of race tires up to proper race temperature out on the highway. The chances are, after setting off on your bike, you’re going to probably fall off. at the first intersection. Stick to road tires for your bike for anything apart from track days.

3. Traction control on a motorcycle will help me go faster.


Yes and no. If you’re new to riding and not that confident yet, you’re never going to be aware of what traction control does. If you’re an all out racer and ride really hard, then the chances are traction control is actually going to get in your way and slow you down, even when set on the least interfering mode.
If you fit somewhere between these two groups then it’s good to have traction control as a sort of safety net if you find yourself going a little faster than expected into and out of the corners. Its there to help you out of trouble.


4. New tires come with a coating that can only be removed by riding them for a few miles under inflated.


No. You’re going to fall off and hurt yourself or maybe get killed. Most new motorcycle road tires look like they have a coating on them but in effect that’s because that’s what they look like when they come out of the mold at the factory.

Never, ever reduce the pressure in the tires to try and scrub them in. Riding on under inflated tires causes them to flex, damages the sidewall and potentially could cause a blow out throwing you off the bike and down on the road. Don’t do it.

5. 18-25 year-olds are the most at risk category for injury or death in the motorcycle community.


While novice riders run a high degree of risk due to lack of experience, the facts are, according to the National Highway Transport Safety Administration’s latest findings on motorcycle deaths, that the biggest group of riders to be killed in the U.S. are the 40-55 year-olds. NHTSA has been tracking this information for over 10 years and the single largest group – more than 40% - of all riders killed in U.S. traffic accidents had an average age of 42-years-old. *-Tell your relatives that when you choose a bike over a car-*.

6. You must never worry about crashing on a bike because if you do you will automatically crash.


Nonsense. While you shouldn’t be mentally fixated on the possibility of hurting yourself on a bike, every single time you get on your motorcycle you need to be fully aware of what you are doing and always be ready to take evasive action. If you think it won’t happen to you, it will.

7. Buy the bike of your dreams as your first bike as you’ll soon learn how to ride it.


This depends on what your dream bike is. But before you even part with your hard-earned cash you should have budgeted for all of the good safety gear you need. Not just a helmet. But gloves, good boots and riding leathers are a must. Once you have all of that, it is only then that you should worry about a bike. Also, just because you’ve set your heart on a particular bike doesn’t mean you should go straight out and buy it. Do your homework. Talk to friends who ride and people who know. Take a riding course and learn how to ride. Then buy something that matches your abilities and that you will be confident on. Make it a bike that you will not worry too much about dropping and that can be fixed easily and cheaply. It will save you a lot of time and money in the long run and then when your skills are really up to speed you can go out and buy that dream bike. It will still be there.

8. Because you ride a motorcycle and are dressed from head to toe in leathers you will be completely irresistible to women.


You mean girls don't think our outfits are sexy?

Possibly. But only if you can find one who is happy to spend hours talking with you about suspension settings, the merits of a R 1200 GS versus a Hayabusa, or a KTM Super Duke over something from Ducati. She will dig the fact you have oil under your fingernails and won’t be put off because you and your leathers smell like a rat’s armpit after eight hours of Lagos to Abuja. She’ll think your helmet is fancy and will be more than happy to look at your road scars and hear for the thousandth time about how you almost fell off at over 200 mph even though it was a cager's fault. In actual fact, if she does all of this, she probably rides as well. In which case my friend you’ve hit the jackpot.

Have we missed anything? We’re sure we have, as this is just a fraction of the urban motorcycle myths. What have you heard since you started riding?
 
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