Monday, 25 April 2016

Vale Prince, funk god and motorcycle fan!


The sad news that Prince Rogers Nelson aka 'The artist formerly known as Prince'  has died at the age of 57 reminds us that the talented songwriter, performer and musician was also a motorcyclist.

His biggest selling album featured Prince astride a chopped and modified 1981 Honda CB400A “Hondamatic”.


He was often seen riding the bike around the streets of Minneapolis. It was a two-speed automatic, so he didn’t need to exercise his finger-fretting hand with a clutch.

The bike was one of three featured in the 1984 Purple Rain movie in which Prince did most of the riding.

It was customised with a large Windjammer fairing, mini-ape handlebars and a pink velour seat.

Don’t laugh at the size of the bike, as Prince may have been big on talent, but he was short in stature at 5 feet, 2 inches (157.4cm).

Even the low 30-inch (762mm) seat would have been a stretch for the rock/funk god, except for the fact that he usually wore high-heeled shoes.


Prince was obsessed by his motorcycle, but the only reference we can find to bikes in his lyrics is in Raspberry Beret: ”I put her on the back of my bike and we went riding down to old man Johnson’s farm.”

The original Purple Rain bike is no longer painted purple though, but black and gold for the sequel Graffiti Bridge, and is still on display at Prince’s Paisley Park Studios, Minneapolis.




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Tuesday, 19 April 2016

The Art of the Lean





Yes leaning is an art and If you’re into riding fast, then there’s no greater sensation than getting into a curve with your knee down (or close to it). Like sex, you’ll always remember your first time. Also like sex, it’s probably going to be a lot easier than you think it will be, you just need to get your body position right. Here are a few tips on how to really lean your bike.

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Monday, 18 April 2016

Turning (cornering) your motorcycle.


Motorcycle riding is cornering!
 

Yea I know we were supposed to look at leaning the motorcycle. I think its of utmost importance that we first know how to turn a bike properly... So here we are.

The essence of motorcycle riding is cornering: many riders agree with that. You may keep enhancing your cornering skills for the rest of your life, and you will probably never reach full perfection (well, maybe with the exception of Valentino Rossi and Dani Pedrosa).
What kind of mistakes are often made in corners, and what is the reason for those mistakes? What can you do about it? What is the perfect line, and how do you find it? When do you brake, and what is the right speed for a corner?
Reading about cornering is, of course, not enough: you will have to practise, practise, and practise.
Here some tips on how to do that

So how do you ride through a corner?

Sometimes, everything seems to fit together. Without being aware what you are doing, you choose the ideal line, you instinctively feel how every corner will behave, and you ride with the right speed, in the right gear, without thinking with hindsight that you could have had a higher speed, and you never get the upsetting thought that your speed is too high for the corner.

Practise consciously
Counter intuitively, you get in the flow most easily when you also try, from time to time, to be really conscious of what you do when cornering.
In cornering, everything is important: how you look through the corner in advance, how you plan your line, how you sit on the motorcycle, how you start the corner, how you use the throttle and how you shift, how you brake in advance, and sometimes, unfortunately, how you brake or swerve in the corner itself.
Of course as earlier said, reading alone will not make you better in cornering: you will have to practise, and learn to feel what happens.

But reading about cornering may help you there....
 

Looking

By far the most important thing to do to get your cornering fluent, is, as always with motorcycle riding, *looking*.

Judge corners

You will have to learn to judge corners, in order to be able to enter an unknown corner with the right entry speed, and in the right gear..
By looking far ahead, you can sometimes see corners long before you have arrived there, and follow the line of the road by viewing trees or lamp posts, even when you don't see the surface of the road.
Judging unknown corners gets better with experience, of course, but to accelerate that learning process, it's always good to evaluate what went wrong and why, when a certain corner surprised you somehow, or when cornering didn't feel good. Try to think whether there were signs about the corner that you missed.

Looking: where you want to go
In the corner itself, it's important to look where you want to go, as always (so don't look at the lonely tree, but follow the line that you want to ride, with your eyes). Always look *far ahead*.
Try to pay attention, in a corner, to the way the corner behaves: tightening curves can be very treacherous. Keep track of the "vanishing point": when it comes closer, the corner is tightening.

Looking: line through the corner
The perfect line through a corner depends on where you ride: You should choose your line such that you can ride one fluent line from the point where you lean in, and such that you are able to accelerate easily throughout the corner (pull the throttle open gently). 

What you can see
Outside the track, almost always your *vision* is the limiting factor. Your line then will not be the line of optimal speed, but of optimal vision.
Therefore, you split a corner in two:
Outside: You start the corner (lean in) where it starts, as much as possible in the outside of the corner, and you make sure that, when necessary, you have already braked and switched gears.
Before entering the corner, you should have the correct speed, be in the correct gear, and have the throttle (slightly) turned on. Then you lean in, and you stay in the outside of the corner.
Straight out: Somewhere in the corner you arrive at a point from where you, from the outside where you still are, can ride on, in one line, to the outside of the road through the inside of the curve.
To do that, you have to lean in again, and now you accelerate out of the corner, via the inside of the corner, to the outside.
That way, you have maximum view all the time.

Looking: tightening corners
It is not always possible to judge corners before you enter them. A nasty kind of corner is the one with a decreasing radius. Such a corner starts easy but gets tighter.
Sometimes there are warning signs so you will not be taken by surprise, but that's not always the case.
Corners with a decreasing radius are especially treacherous because you will often not notice it until it is too late to react.
Vanishing point
You are able to notice such corners longer in advance, when you, while in the corner, keep attention to the so-called "vanishing point". It is the point at which the inner and outer side of the corner seem to come together.
When you observe that your distance to the vanishing points keeps getting bigger, everything is alright: the corner is widening up.
But when the vanishing points gets closer, you know that the corner will get tighter. You still have time to decrease your speed with that rear brake (gently of course), or to lean in more.
Oops, didn't see it coming
OK, but what to do when you forgot to observe the vanishing point, and you are surprised, mid-corner, by a decreasing radius?
->  Push your motorcycle to the inside, with your outside knee. Leaning in extra by pushing against the inside steering handle is possible as well, but often, you have a psychological barrier to do so in such a situation. Pushing with your knee is easier then.
->  Use the rear brake gently. You will not only decrease your speed, but the motorcycle will turn a bit around its rear wheel so to speak, so you will turn more into the corner. That's exactly what you need. Mind that you don't hit the rear brake hard in panic!
In general, you will ride corners in such a way that there still is the possibility to lean in more, on the street. After all, this is Lagos. It is almost impossible to ride to your limits.

Looking: negative camber corners


Positive camber: The ultimate form of positive camber is the wall of death. The riders in there ride very tight corners without leaning in at all.
Sometimes, you ride through corners with a positive camber, and you will notice that they are easier then they looked before you went in.
A positive camber makes you ride a curve while your motorcycle holds a right angle to the road surface. The surface of a positive camber corner goes upwards to the outside of a corner.

Negative camber: A corner with negative camber is the opposite: the outside of the corner is lower than the inside.
That means that you have to lean in more than in the same corner and the same speed when the surface of the road would be flat, or would have a positive camber.
Often you don't see it in advance. You notice that the corner seems tighter than it looked, while it isn't the radius of the turn that is the cause.

Roundabouts: Roundabouts are often higher in the centre than at the outside, so have a negative camber.
That has been done so that dirt or oil will stream to the outside, while at the same time, traffic will be slowed down extra.
So, especially in the wet, try to keep in the inside at roundabouts (less dirt there), and be prepared that you have to lean in more than you would tell in advance, observing the corner.

Prepare: braking and changing gears

Being prepared: Before you enter a corner, you should be ready. You should have the right speed (so you should have braked enough if necessary), and you should have switched to the right gear.
The right gear is the one in which you ride through the corner easily, and which allows you to accelerate out of the corner.

Practice: A good exercise to get a feeling for which gear suits which corner, is to choose a stretch of the road where you know each corner, and enter those corners one gear lower then you are used to, and again, with one gear higher.
You will notice where you are in too high a gear because it is hard to accelerate without switching to a lower gear, or when you use a too low gear because it is hard to get the bike through the corner by gently accelerating.

Take your time: Take your time to prepare for a corner. If you have to do everything in the last moment, you will probably brake much harder, and enter the turn with a much lower speed than you would if you would prepare longer in advance.
If you really want to ride a certain distance in the shortest possible time, you would have to prepare at the last moment, of course. But even then, you are better off when you first make sure that everything else is perfect, before you start working on braking and shifting late.
If you take your time for the preparation, you can concentrate on the corner itself.


Entering the corner: Leaning in

Leaning in: In fact, the word steering is the wrong word, because it has the association of a steering wheel which you use to turn the wheels, like you do in a car, to handle a corner. That is not the way it is.
A much better word is "lean in".
You start a corner by leaning your motorcycle. You lean again in the point where you can ride out of the corner through the inside of the corner to the outside.

How? How do you do that, lean your motorcycle in? It helps to push with your weight, and it helps to push with your outside knee against the tank. In a corner to the left, you push the bike leftward with your right buttock; in a corner to the right you push the bike to the right with your left buttock.
It also helps if you push against the inside handlebar. It feels like you push that handlebar downward. (So, this is different from "steering", because you only use the handlebars to lean your motorcycle, and use your handlebars only indirectly to get your motorcycle to ride a corner).
Counter-steering: If you ever come across the word "counter-steering" (you probably will): this is what it is. Some explanations sound incredibly confusing, but it's simple and clear.
When you push the motorcycle downward (or rather, when it feels as if you're pushing it downward) through the handlebar, try to keep in mind not to automatically sit straight up and round the corner motocross-style.
It's better when you get used to lean with the motorcycle, or lean a little bit inwards, because you have more ground clearance that way.
Only in very tight corners, motocross-style can be of use, because you are more in control, so it's more easy to push the motorcycle farther or less far into the corner.

In the corner: the throttle


In the corner: on the throttle - The ideal situation is when you are able to turn on the throttle, little by little, during the whole corner.
With the throttle on, and without pulling the clutch, your motorcycle is much more stable than without the throttle or with a pulled-in clutch. When you pull the clutch during a corner, your motorcycle will "fall" to the inside.

Gently: During the first stretch of the corner, the stretch where you keep to the outside, your use of the throttle is very gently.

Out of the corner: more throttle - At the point from where you can lean in further, from where you can ride out of the corner, almost in a straight line, you can open the throttle more.
Now you can accelerate out of the corner. The acceleration will get your bike straight up again, which you need to ride in a straight line.

In the corner: Speed - Slow in, fast out
What you should know about speed in corners is very simple: you enter them slowly and you go out fast.
Try to give your attention to the line through the corner, and to the amount of throttle you give. Speed will come as a bonus that way.
In general, when you try to go as fast as possible, you end up going less fast than when you concentrate on what matters ;-)

The right speed:
What is the right speed? There is only one correct answer: the speed at which you feel comfortable. 
Not off the throttle: If you notice, halfway, that you go off the throttle, then your speed was too high (by the way, go off the throttle is not the right way to lower your speed in a corner; it is an automatic reaction that often occurs when your speed is higher than your comfort-speed).
If you notice that cornering doesn't go like you would like it to go, that you can't find the right lines, that you make mistakes like going off the throttle, than those are signs that you should enter corners at lower speeds.

Don't grab the handlebars: Other signs that you go faster than what is right for you, is when you notice that you are holding your handlebars too tightly (you always have to have a loose grip on the handlebars: your motorcycle should be able to make small steering corrections by itself), or when you are fixating one point (a tree or a lamppost).
 

Braking in a corner

Of course, you should always try to enter a corner with the right entry speed. But here, we suppose you didn't quite succeed and you were riding much too fast to your liking. Or you encounter a big truck in the corner, and the road is very narrow, what should you do?

In the first place, try to keep in mind that letting off the throttle is not the way to go. Somehow, that's what happens most easily, so it's difficult to get rid of that habit.
Touch the back brake

When your speed is just a little bit too fast for feeling comfortable, simply touch the back brake. Not hard of course, but just gently touch it with your foot. Your motorcycle will steer even more into the corner and will not try to straighten up, so touching the back brake is never a problem for your line, and for cornering fluently.

Emergency Brake: front and clutch

But sometimes, you really have to BRAKE. A child might cross the road, or a car pulls out from behind a hedge. In such a case, your back brake won't help you.
Pull the clutch and use the front brake. Be careful, and keep pushing your bike into the corner (for most people, the outer knee and outer buttock works best in this situation), because your bike will try to straighten up (and thus steer out of the corner).

When you practise, you will be able to brake rather hard in corners!

Polygon instead of a fluent line

The mistake that is made most often, in cornering, is not to ride a fluent line, but showing a polygon instead, by dividing one corner into a series of short corners. This mistake is made in different ways:
Start too early - It's possible, for instance, to start cornering too early. Then your bike ends up near the side of the road, or on the part of the road for the opposite direction, which forces you to steer out of the corner. But because you still didn't finish the corner, you will have to steer into the corner not much later, and the same process may start again.

Surprised by the corner - Another possibility is that you didn't look through the entire corner before you started it. Then you may be surprised any moment by the corner; you will have to make corrections any moment, and those steering inputs will result in a line made up of several short lines in slightly different directions.

When you observe these kind of mistakes, in yourself, it's important to decide, before you enter a corner, which line to take, and especially to look far ahead, and practise that.
 
Too fast? - There is no absolute speed for every corner: the right speed varies from person to person, from motorcycle to motorcycle, from tyre to tyre, and from day to day. When your name is Valentino Rossi, your maximum speed for a certain corner will probably be higher then when you have a different name, and when the weather is cold and wet, your maximum will be lower then in sunny and dry circumstances.

So, the right speed is a combination of the motorcycle (tyres, ground clearance, frame), the motorcycle rider (experience, mood, awareness), and the circumstances (the road surface, the weather, the corner).

You entered a corner too fast if you:

->  Can't resist the urge to brake during the corner,

->  Can't resist to close the throttle during the corner,

->  Don't take the corner at all, but instead ride straight on (that means that you didn't dare to enter the corner at all) (and this scenario is pretty laughable).

When you notice that you tend to enter corners too fast, read the  inbound link piece about speed on this page, and try to concentrate on the line through the corner instead of on how fast (and related: how much leaned in) you take the corner.

In the end, you will go faster through corners than when you keep trying to keep your speed up.
 
Too slow? - Lots of people see it as a mistake when they notice, when having finished a corner, that they could have taken it with a higher speed. Is taking a corner "too slow" really a mistake?

When you think about it, it's only a mistake when you see it that way.

By concentrating on looking, and on the line through the corner, you will, somewhere in the future, really get that higher speed. When you enter a corner at a slower speed than might seem necessary with hindsight, it only means that you needed the slower speed, and that is no mistake at all.


The complete picture

So what do you do, with stories, long gist, tips and clues?
Start slowly is the rule. Don't think about what "they" will think about you.

Follow the line with your eyes: In the first place, make sure that when you enter a corner, that your eyes already have followed the line that you want to follow through the corner.

Be ready:In the second place, make sure that you are ready before the corner. So make sure that you have braked or slowed down otherwise, that you are in the right gear, and that your throttle is constant, with the speed that you want to be the entry speed.

Lean in: Point three is entering the corner by leaning in, following your virtual line, and in the meantime keep looking far ahead, staying at the outside of the corner as long as possible.

Throttle: Point four is the throttle: you always give throttle while in a corner. You will soon be at the point where you can lean in for the second time, and you will be able to accelerate out of the corner.

From then on, you will be looking ahead for the next corner...

Enjoy!

 Aha! Lest you forget... Comment below. Thanks

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Friday, 15 April 2016

Back to the basics - Overcoming the fear of leaning your motorcycle.




So many riders are deathly afraid of leaning their motorcycle, especially at low speeds and I believe this subject needs to be discussed.

First, you may ask, "why is this important?" Leaning the motorcycle is of the utmost importance because a motorcycle turns by leaning. The further you lean the bike, the tighter the turn it will make. Let's take your average Road King. If you walked a Road King around in a circle while it was straight up, it would take about 21' to complete the circle. If on the other hand you leaned the bike over as far as it will go, that same motorcycle will turn in about 16'. That's a 5' savings. Look at it this way, when a car turns left in front of you and you have to make a quick evasive maneuver, you can miss the car by 5' if you lean the bike to it's maximum. If you're afraid to lean the bike, you'll have no choice other than slamming on your brakes and low-siding. You should learn your bike's lean limits at low speeds under controlled conditions in a parking lot. That way, if you tip the bike over, you simply step off of it and let the bike go. If you attempt to find your bike's limits while rounding a turn at 60mph and you make a mistake, the results will be disastrous. If you're not aware that a motorcycle turns by leaning, try this simple exercise. Cruise on down the road at 20mph and keep only your palms on the grips with your fingers straight up, push on the left grip and you'll notice that the bike leans to the left and goes to the left. It's the same with the right grip. The front wheel actually turns very slightly, the harder and faster you push on the grip, the quicker the bike will react. Now at low speeds, below 15mph, you are actually handlebar steering. That means, whatever way you turn the handlebars, the front tire will turn in that direction and that's the way the bike will go. In addition, if while you're turning the handlebars you allow the bike to lean, even the biggest motorcycle will become extremely easy to handle at low speeds. You'll be able to maneuver and U-turn quite easily. Of course at low speeds, you should be in the friction zone, be putting light pressure on the rear brake and using your head and eyes, looking where you want the bike to go. Of course, your head and eyes are even more important at higher speeds. Always keep your focus on the end of the turn.

Now here's some tricks that will get you leaning your bike and overcoming your fears. Set up 5 cones in a straight line, spaced at 30' intervals. Get your speed up to about 20mph and begin maneuvering through the cones by pushing back and forth on the handlebars. When performing this exercise, you should not be using the brake or the friction zone. You're simply counter steering the motorcycle. Keep your head and eyes up and focus on the very last cone. As you get more comfortable with this exercise, increase your speed, allow your bike to lean from side to side. Your goal should be to get your pegs or floorboards to scrape occasionally as you maneuver through the cones.

For low speed leaning, place the cones at 12' intervals. During this slow exercise, you should be in the friction zone and applying pressure to the rear brake. Again, allow the bike to lean from side to side. You'll find it difficult to scrape the boards with the cones set at 12' apart, but it will help you to get familiar with leaning the motorcycle at low speeds.

The next exercise for leaning the bike is the very simple circle exercise. It would help to have a friend stand in the center of the circle. Focus on that persons face as you begin circling around them. Start with big circles, 30 or 40' around, stay in the friction zone, put pressure on the rear brake and try to tighten up the circles each time you go around the person. Have the person in the center of the circle tell you how close you're getting to scraping the boards or pegs. Eventually, you should be able to scrape a perfect circle in the ground with your floorboards or pegs. Remember to keep both feet on the pegs or floorboards. As long as you keep power to the rear wheel, the bike cannot tip over. Putting a foot down should be a last resort and should be done with just a quick dap to maintain balance. Make sure you practice this in both directions, turning to the right and to the left. Good luck, all it takes is a little practice.

Tomorrow we go into the act of leaning the bike in traffic...
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Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Air-conditioning for motorcyclists...



 

 Ok, so yesterday I was playing around on crowdfunding.com and found a company that is spear-heading the manufacturing of air conditioners for motorcyclists.

Imagine my surprise.

I've read of air-conditioning systems for motorcyclists, that sat on the back of the bike, but this latest invention is much lighter, smaller and hangs off your trousers to pump cold or hot air into your jacket.

It’s called MiClimate and the makers promise it will hit the market at about US$269 (N83,390 at Nigeria's current rate of N310-$1) with battery if it reaches its crowd-funding goal of $20,000. With a month to go, they are already well over 60% funded, so it looks like a goer.



It’s a real invention by a company based in Phoenix, Arizona, which is in the desert and experiences extreme climate changes from around 100 degrees (37°C) maximum in summer and 50°F (10°C) in winter. (Yes! something similar to our Lagos sun)

It is based on a Personal Wearable Climate unit used by the US Navy in 2009.

While there have been other attempts at motorcycle air-conditioning in the past, this is portable because it uses electronics, rather than a bulky compressor.

It’s about the size of a big hard-bound Harry Potter novel, weighs 1.5lb (0.68kg) and fits around your waist via a belt.

You can power it with a rechargeable 12V lithium-ion battery that will last about four hours, or connect it to your bike’s battery which saves you $20 on purchase price.

It is controlled by a Bluetooth remote that attaches to your handlebars, or you can press buttons on the control unit to increase or decrease air temperature which blows inside your jacket.

MiClimate may still be a bit bulky, but it could mean you don’t have to go without a jacket and safety to stay cool in extreme heat.

The manufacturers claim it will reduce ambient temperature by 18°F (10°C) or increase it by 36°F (20°C).

The effect may depend on your jacket’s fit and whether you have vents for the air to escape.

MiClimate Motorcycle Air conditioning.


Without having tried it, we think it could deliver cool/warm air where it enters the jacket, but you could still be hot/cold at the other end of your jacket, creating an uncomfortable imbalance.

But at least it shows a willingness to battle the problem of temperature which can have an effect on the concentration level – and therefore safety – of a rider.

What do you think? Yay or Nay? Comments below
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Monday, 11 April 2016

Save our World & GoodFellas Motorcycle Club charity ride.




Last weekend, lagos state lit up as Save Our World an NGO passionate about the less privileged, teamed up with GoodFellas Motorcycle Club to give back to the society. The event saw riders from various motorcycle clubs in different parts of Lagos team up with the GoodFellas, and give back to society. 

The ride kicked off at 10am from the national stadium,  and the first port of call was the Hearts of Gold Children's Hospice in Surulere. Where food, clothing and toiletries were donated to assist the needs of the children.

Next port of call was the Modupe Cole school for the homeless and disabled, Yaba. Where donations were made.



The third and final port of call for the day was a Heritage homes in Anthony, Maryland where final donations were made and the entire crew returned called it a day.



More pics below... 














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Thursday, 7 April 2016

The Hidden Danger of Dehydration – Don’t Let it Ruin Your Ride!

 


With the current heat in Lagos and temperatures between 32 C and 38 C, one would think this is the perfect opportunity to ride. Many will head off at a moment’s notice when the sun comes out, and why not? You’ve literally ‘got to make hay while the sun shines’, as the rains are fast approaching.
 
While that’s true, it’s also important to remember that the sun and heat can be a danger. As much as we all might like to jump on our bikes and dart across the 3rd Mainland Bridge, it’s important to realise the risks we might be taking if we don’t keep ourselves properly hydrated before, during and after our ride. Some recent research has found that driving while dehydrated has the same effect as drunk driving.
 
Dr Phil Watson – Free University, Brussels – says “The research has shown us the impact dehydration can have on our ability to control a vehicle, whether that’s a car, lorry or motorbike. It revealed the number of mistakes we make doubles when we’re dehydrated, the same margin of error as people who are at the drunk driving limit – 0.08% blood-alcohol in England, Wales and Northern Ireland.”
 
Jane Holdsworth, Director of the European Hydration Institute (EHI), adds “Anecdotal evidence suggests that many drivers avoid drinking on long journeys to minimise bathroom stops, yet we know that even mild dehydration can cause symptoms such as headache, tiredness and lethargy.”
 
Darting out on a whim when the sun comes out might seem spontaneous and exciting, but riding while dehydrated is going to diminish your ability to control your bike and stay safe.
What is dehydration?
 
We become dehydrated when our bodies lose more water than they take in. This disrupts the balance of minerals (sugars and salts) in our bodies and affects how we function. Any reduction in our physical or mental capacity will naturally affect how well we’re able to ride and increase the chance of making a mistake or losing control.
 
Dehydration comes in three forms: mild, moderate and severe. The risk of accidents aside, avoiding and tackling any form of dehydration is always important because, if untreated, it can lead to much more serious and dangerous conditions like heat exhaustion and heatstroke.

Common signs of mild or moderate dehydration include:
  • Thirst
  • Dryness in the mouth, lips and eyes
  • Dark urine or strong smelly urine
  • Passing urine less than three or four times a day
  • Headaches, dizziness
  • Lack of energy
  • Feeling lightheaded
  • Loss of strength and stamina
Luckily these symptoms can easily be reversed by taking fluids and resting in a cool, shaded place as soon as you become aware of them.

Avoiding Dehydration

I advice drinking a lot of water generally, as this helps your body stay in optimum condition at all times. Nonetheless always have a decent drink of water (a glass or two) before embarking on any ride, no matter how short. Lagos is hot and most times before you exit your street, you're already sweaty.

On solo long rides, use a hydration pack. Hydration packs provide you with 3-5 litres of cool water without the inconvenience of stopping to refill. Contrary to popular opinion one doesn't need to stop often when riding hydrated because you're sweating it out. Eventually you would need to stop and stretch anyways, then you take a leak.

On long group rides, Make regular stops and make sure these stops have spots where one can easily purchase water and expel urine.

Severe dehydration – an emergency condition that needs immediate hospital treatment – can have these additional symptoms:
  • Feeling unusually tired or confused, especially when you think you’re dehydrated
  • Dizziness when you stand up that doesn’t go away after a few seconds
  •  Not passing urine for eight hours or more
  • A weak pulse
  • A rapid pulse
  • Fits (seizures)
  • A low level of consciousness



 Related conditions

Dehydration is a main cause of heat exhaustion and can also lead to heatstroke.
Heat exhaustion results in a drop in blood pressure caused by being exposed to heat for too long. You might feel sick, faint and sweat heavily. This needs to be treated quickly by moving to a cool, shaded area and drinking more water and removing excess clothing. You should feel better in half an hour but if you don’t treat it early on it can lead to heatstroke – a very dangerous condition.
Heatstroke is also caused by overexposure to heat and results in the body’s core temperature rising to dangerous levels. If that happens, you’ll need to be treated immediately at hospital.
 

Tackling dehydration

Like I said earlier on: Drinking plenty of water regularly throughout the day is the best way to avoid dehydration because it contains no sugar or salts which can exacerbate dehydration or cause other complications. After water, natural fruit juices and organic smoothies are the next best choice. Always read the label so you understand how much sugar and salt are in the drink, and try to avoid drinks with lots of sugar or caffeine because over time these can lead to other health problems.
 
It goes without saying, not riding during the hottest part of the day is an easy way to avoid dehydration too. When exactly that time is, can vary according to the weather conditions on any given day.
 
Planning your route and stops, and taking water with you will definitely help you make the most of the ride. You’ll be able to regulate your food and water intake, use a proper toilet, and enjoy your ride without worrying about how dehydration could ruin your chances of a nice day out.
 
But don’t be fooled by the temperature though, you can still be dehydrated in cold weather if you haven’t drank enough fluids. Thankfully whatever the weather, limiting the effects of dehydration is easy. We just have to drink enough WATER regularly throughout the day! Water not soda.
Remember:
  • Water is best because it has no added sugar or salts
  • Water keeps your joints and eyes lubricated
  • Water maintains your strength and stamina
All essential for healthy living and healthy riding!
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